Ikkeri Aghoreshwara

The Kings ruling from Keladi were actually known as Ikkeri Kings ( ಎರಡು ಕೇರಿ = ಇಕ್ಕೇರಿ ) The origin of Ikkeri ( Two streets) Kingdom as that of any other Kingdom is largely unclear as the founders have humble beginnings. Only later are the myths added, life histories written and Monuments built in their memory.
According to Sivatattvaratnakara a Sanskrit literary work written by Basavaraja in 1698-1715, Chauda and Bhadra were two of the four sons of Basavappa and Basavamma. Chauda had a dream of finding treasure and he is supposed to have found it. This increased his prestige and finally hearing of the influence of Chauda the Vijayanagara King, appointed him the Governor of Pulladesha (present day Ikkeri?) and gave him the title Keladi Chaudappa Nayaka.

Aghoreshwara Temple

A magnificent Aghoreshwara Temple now survives at Ikkeri proclaiming the earlier greatness of the place. The Temple has influences from the Vijayanagara, Karnata Dravida, Chalukya and even Deccan Sultanate architecture styles. The original 32 handed Aghoreshwara Idol that was in the Girbagriha was destroyed during a raid by the Bijapur Sultanate and only the decapitated pedestal now survives in the Temple courtyard.

The pedestal of the broken Aghoreshwara Statue at the Temple courtyard

The pedestal of the broken Aghoreshwara Statue at the Temple courtyard

The Girbagriha now has a Linga and the original Nandi carved out of Spar survives and glows in the dark.

The Linga and the Nandi in the Sanctum Sanctorum

There is also a huge embellished Nandi is also at the entrance of the Temple.

 There is also a line sketch of the Architects (Vaastushilpi) who built the Temple.

The Architects of the Aghoreshwara Temple

There is another smaller Temple dedicated to Goddess Akhilandeshwari is also present in the larger Temple complex.

Akhilandeshwari Temple

The Temple surroundings were also very pleasant with friendly neighbourhood. An aged couple living next to the temple invited us for a cup of coffee, but due to lack of time we could not accept which I now regret .
However we did visit the backyard of a house where they were plucking Mangoes and they gifted us a couple of fruits.

Mangoes!!!

Another surprise was a pineapple plant with one solitary fruit. I had just set my eyes on a pineapple plant for the first time and I was thrilled.

Pineapple!!!

We left with a heavy heart and the rain was coming on in spurts and carried a cold wind that was just short of biting!!!!!!

Leaving the Aghoreshwara Temple

Keladi

The long due Monsoon rains started as we were driving through Sagar in Malenadu near Shivamogga. The wind screamed through the windshield and cool rain splattered on to our faces. We kept the windows open.

The road curved every now and then like someone stretching himself after a good night's sleep. It was lined with tall trees all along and interrupted by bushes and shrubs at a few places. Soon we were at Keladi. This sleepy village was once the Capital of Keladi Kingdom. At first a feudatory of the Vijayanagara Empire, Keladi later became independent after the debacle of the Vijayanagara Empire at Talikote.

Today there is a Historical Museum and Research Centre set up due to efforts of Rashtra Kavi Kuvempu. There are more than 5000 palm leaf books, many copper plates, Hundreds of feet of "Kadatha" (The writing & filing system of erstwhile Kings and their courts. It is made up of cloth painted with charcoal etc and written using soft stone ( Balapa), Sculptures, Paintings (Done using natural pigments extracted from fruits & flowers), rare letters written by the Mysore Maharajas and their Dewans, Utensils & attire from a bygone era etc

The Keladi Kingdom was established by Chaudappa Nayaka around 1500. During the reign of Hiriya Venkatappa Nayaka, Keladi unfettered itself from the truncated Vijayanagara Empire that had relocated to Penugonda and proclaimed itself to be a completely independent Kingdom consisting of the coastal regions, Malanadu ( Hilly region including the western ghats) and some parts of Bayaluseeme (Plains) in Karnataka.

Keladi was a rich Kingdom with trade relations overseas. It had a burgeoning trade in spices and kept the marauding Portuguese at bay. Shivappa Nayaka was the most successful king from this lineage. He is known as Sistina Shivappa Nayaka (Sistu - Tax on land holdings) a very able administrator and Keladi was very prosperous with great encouragement given to the Arts & Literature, had the resources to maintain a standing army, powerful and well trained. He is known in history for administrative reforms that were pioneering efforts in many ways and a template for later rulers. Todarmal, the Finance Minister in Akbar the Great's court was very much impressed by the system introduced by the Keladi Kings.

The Rameshwara Temple at Keladi today stands as testimony to the creative achievements of Keladi. It also has some very fine sculptures. Many myths are associated with the temple as well. There is a Measuring  scale etched in the temple that was a standard for measuring Land Holdings etc

The most famous of the Keladi rulers was Keladi Chennamma, a brave heart who stood up against the Moghuls and made them sue for a treaty with Keladi on favorable terms to her Kingdom. She had invited the wrath of the Moghuls as she had given shelter to Chatrapati Rajaram, son of that Great Indian Conqueror, Chatrapati Shivaji. Rajaram was fleeing the Moghul army to Jinji in South India and Rani Chennamma hosted him (Not to be confused with another illustrious queen of Kannada, Rani Chennamma of Kittur)

This incident has been captured for posterity at the Rameshwara Temple. It shows Rani Chennamma with Chatrapati Shivaji and Rajaram.

Lord Veerabadreshwara with his Symbol, Scorpion - Rameshwara Temple, Keladi

Gandabherunda - The Mythical Bird

A realistic sculpting of a Parrot feeding her baby